Two weeks ago I provided nine nonbeef burger recipes. Consider these recipes an addendum: homemade alternatives to the bottled and jarred condiments that are lined up like summer’s foot soldiers on our refrigerator doors.
Why spend time making your own condiments? A legitimate question, even for cooks who embrace the D.I.Y. mentality that yields things like homemade salad dressings, salsas and hummus, all of which could be considered “condiments” in their own right. But when it comes to ketchup and its brethren — relish, barbecue sauce and the like — most of us cave and revert to the store-bought versions.
Resist that impulse. The reasons are the same as they are for countless other foods that you can readily grab at the store: controlling and customizing flavor and avoiding worthless (or harmful) artificial ingredients. Those are enough for me.
My ketchup, for example, is a respite from the commercial brands laden with high-fructose corn syrup. I know that neither you nor I will ever rely exclusively on homemade ketchup, but it’s a super option.
In addition to classic burger and dog accompaniments, I’ve included condiments that will find their way onto things other than meat in a bun, like corn-and-tomato relish — a quintessential summer sauce to spoon over simply grilled fish, chicken or meat — and teriyaki sauce.
None of these can languish in your fridge for months on end, which is what happens when you don’t load things up with preservatives. The recipes here all yield quantities that you’ll use over the course of a few grilling sessions, or at one big party. The exception is chimichurri, the addictive Argentine herb sauce that you’ll want to use right away. But that’s O.K.: You can’t buy anything nearly as good at the store.